<![CDATA[<br /><br />Thimble & Cloth - DIY]]>Sun, 23 Apr 2017 20:28:11 -0700Weebly<![CDATA[Great Big Announcement: The Classroom Collective]]>Fri, 01 May 2015 19:49:07 GMThttp://thimbleandcloth.com/4/post/2015/05/great-big-announcement-the-classroom-collective.htmlSharing our announcement that made its debut on Candice's Blog Ivy and Tweed

From Candice:


About six weeks ago, my cutie friend, Lindy (@thimbleandclothblog), and I got our selves a little idea. And we quickly decided this little idea had BIG potential. So we did what all rational people do, we dove straight into the deep end, created a brand, formed a business plan, found ourselves a perfect little space, and now we are just a few small steps away from taking our little idea with big potential and turning it into a tangible business. That’s completely rational, right?!

With that said, we are incredibly proud and overwhelmingly excited to introduce you to the classroom collective, a space to connect with community and cultivate creativity.

We will be opening a quaint little space where we will host a collection of creative workshops ranging from simple DIY’s to more advanced projects. In addition to the classes, we have also been creating a curated line of handmade merchandise that will appear in our occasional pop-up shop!

Our mission is to create a space where community thrives and creativity abounds. Hear me out, we LOVE Instagram, like really love it. It’s how we’ve come to know most of you. But we want to take our insta-friendships to the next level and get to know you face to face.

And we LOVE creating. It’s who we are. When I first met Lindy and asked her what kind of art she does. She said, “I don’t know, I do everything I like to do. I’m a maker, I just love to make all things”. I knew right then and there we were creative soul mates. Those little words just spoke right to my heart. For the longest time I thought I had to categorize myself as one form of artist, for example: photographer. But my love for creativity runs so much deeper and I just want to create all the time using all the mediums. I’m not trying to become an expert at all things, I just want to create because of the way it makes me feel; alive.

And because of this great love for creativity coupled with our eagerness to connect with community, this idea was born. We not only want to connect with you, we want to create with you. We want to take all of those Pinterest perfect projects you’ve been dying to make, and facilitate a space to make it happen. We do the shopping, the prepping, the instructing, and the cleanup. You just show up (invite your friends too), get your craft on (with guidance, ensuring no major “Pinterest Fails”), indulge yourself in some tasty treats, have a few laughs, and take your new handmade project home to receive great amounts of admiration for your handiwork!

We liken it to a creative vacation, but without all the fuss of packing and planning.

Gosh, I’m so excited just spelling it out… I can hardly wait to see it all come to life!

Like I said earlier, we are just a few baby steps away from becoming and official business. But we really couldn’t wait another day longer to share the big news!

So what’s next?

Today, we launched an official Instagram account for The Classroom Collective. We would LOVE if you would follow along with us@theclassroomcollective – we’ll be posting behind the scenes and loads of updates as they happen.

We’ve got a website in the works, so stay tuned for the big launch.

Next up, we will be starting a crowd-funding campaign to raise the funds to get this party started. We will be launching a product line of some of our favorite handmade textile based-goodness, allowing you to make a purchase toward our funding goal to cover some of the bigger start up costs! More on that soon, but we just wanted to plant a little seed in preparation because we would LOVE for you to partner alongside us in this endeavor!

And finally, our goal is to have a grand opening to show off the shop and space in mid-June, and start launching classes in July. We’ve got a sweet little lineup of classes in the works ranging from weaving, leather working, indigo textile dying, and so much more. But we would love to hear– in the comments and/or on Instagram– what kind of projects/classes would interest you most!

Thank you so much for being our inspiration and following along with us! We can’t wait to connect and create!

PS. Don’t forget to connect with us on Instagram:

@theclassroomcollective

@candicehackett

@thimbleandclothblog

And click the hashtag #theclassroomcollective to see some of the behind the scenes that Lindy and I have been posting over the past few weeks!

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<![CDATA[DIY: Faux Weaving/Yarn Tapestry]]>Mon, 20 Apr 2015 01:27:10 GMThttp://thimbleandcloth.com/4/post/2015/04/diy-faux-weavingyarn-tapestry.html
How do you guys feel about woven wall hangings? Love it or hate it? 

I LOVE IT. It's kinda hard to get started, (I only say that because I haven't actually even started but this new and unknown world of weaving just looks kinda hard right?!) So I plan to make myself a loom and give it a full blown shot but for now here is a very simple, almost self explanatory 'faux weaving' or 'tie some string on a stick' DIY project that is sure to create a little texture in your home decor.

I didn't take photos of this exact one but I recreated the simple steps, so here you go.

Take a stick, 2 skeins of yarn (I chose 2 of the same brand that were only one shade different for texture. you can see the color difference in the below image) and some scissors.

Each knotted grouping is made up of two pieces of long yarn and then folded in half.

Mine was made from about 60 groupings so start off by cutting about 120 long pieces of yarn the same length. 
Combine two pieces of long string, one from each color and fold in half and tie on to the stick.

And then do that again and again and again and again until you have 60 groupings. 
Then you can cut whatever shape into it. For mine i separated them into 3 groupings of 20 and cut the outer groupings a tad shorter than the middle section. 

you could also make a gradual decline/incline or a bunting flag shape or a V shape. I think it would be fun to fray the edges a bit too.

Easy Peasy right!!? Now go on and tie some string on a stick!
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<![CDATA[DIY Leather Camera Strap]]>Sat, 11 Apr 2015 03:40:05 GMThttp://thimbleandcloth.com/4/post/2015/04/diy-leather-camera-strap.html
Me and this strap have seen some pretty great things, namely Thailand. Hence the radio silence over here, I have been so exhausted from travel and am finally feeling myself this week. I hope to blog about our trip in the coming days, it was EPIC. 

For now, here is a super simple DIY so you can finally take off that noobie strap that came with your camera and start looking like you actually know how to use the thing.


What you'll need:
1 Leather strap from Hobby Lobby ($6 but you can use your 40% off coupon. dang cheap camera strap)
Leather punch
Rivets
hammer
2 D rings
2 swivel hooks
2 key rings 
gold spray paint - optional
rub and buff - optional
Once you gather the materials, its pretty obvious how to assemble, especially if you know how to apply rivets.

First I sprayed my hardware with a little brass spray paint and rubbed them down with some antique gold rub and buff. It gives it a rose gold look.

Than string your D ring through your leather strap and fold it over. Hole punch it in two places.

push the long side of the rivet through the holes and then secure the cap side of the rivet onto the other end.
Place your rivet anvil under one side of the rivet and give it a couple of good whacks with your hammer.

Repeat this process on the other end of the strap and then clasp your swivel hook to your D ring and your key ring to the swivel hook. than simply apply the key ring to your camera body and you have yourself a raw leather camera strap that will age and wear like a dream.

Easy huh!? Now all you have to do is grab your passport and head to Thailand to take pictures of yourself hanging with these cool peeps. Good times.
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<![CDATA[Shibori and Leather Lined Tote DIY]]>Wed, 11 Mar 2015 23:09:21 GMThttp://thimbleandcloth.com/4/post/2015/03/shibori-and-leather-lined-tote-diy.htmlWell, look how fun it is! I made each side a different Shibori pattern for a little versatility. 

Heres what you need, aside from a little sewing skills.

1.5 yards of white cotton canvas
Batting
faux leather scrap or about 1/4 yard for the bottom
2 Leather strips from Hobby Lobby
Indigo dye kit (Amazon, $10)
Leather punch tool or Awl
Rivets (I bought mine online, though I have found some at bead shops and joann has a limited section)



To make:
following the indigo dye kit instructions, I made my vat of dye. while it was settling, I cut my fabric in half (hamburger ways, so i had 2 pieces of 3/4 yard) and following the indigo dye kit instructions rubber banded 2 different patterns.
I than dyed them following instructions and washed and dried my fabric. 

Onto the constructing part!

I wanted it to be a large tote bag/weekender so I made mine the entire width of the fabric X 18" long.

I cut a front and a back piece at these measurements and than another set for the lining. so you should have 4 identical pieces.

I wanted mine to have a faux leather bottom for structure so I sewed the strip right sides together onto 2 of the pieces that would be my front and back external pieces. ( you will need to subtract the inches of the leather that will be in place of the canvas fabric on the bottom so that your lining pieces will still be the same exact size as your external pieces. you are not adding inches by adding the leather, does this make sense?)


Above is my 2 outside pieces and my 2 inside pieces.

To make a boxed, flat bottom you will need to cut 2 little squares on both sides of your external and lining pieces. 3"x 3"

Now, I knew I wanted a little bit more structure so I added batting on both sides of the external pieces, just to the point of the leather strip. And I sewed the two outer pieces right sides together. Only sew the sides to the bottom cut outs and also sew the bottom across.
Than you will make the boxed bottom by pinching the cut out corners together and sew straight across.
Repeat the same steps (minus the addition of the batting) to the liner pieces.
Now right sides together you will put the lining inside the external pieces and sew around the entire circumference of the bag, leaving about a 5 inch opening. Like this...
Reach your hand inside that hole and flip it right side out. and it will look like this...
Now shove the Lining into the outer pieces and sew up that 5 inch opening.
If these directions still aren't clear to you, I'd recommend reading through this tutorial, which I referred to a couple of times while making my own. 


Now, it's time to attach the leather handles using the rivets.
Measure and mark where you want your handles to be on the bag. mine are about 6" from the sides.
Using your leather punch make 2 rows of 2 for a total of 4 rivets per handle.
put your rivet through the hole and than place the backing rivet on the inside. Using your anvil on the inside of the bag underneath the inside backing rivet, hammer the outside rivet, a couple of times using a good amount of force. continue until you have secured all handles. My leather handle drop is about 10 inches.

If the rivets confuse you or you have trouble finding some, you can always sew the leather straps on using a leather needle. just go around the perimeter and then make a large x inside that perimeter, like this:

You now have a fully lined, durable and versatile weekender/tote bag! If you have any questions let me know!

Luvs, Lindy
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<![CDATA[DIY Desk From a Hollow Core Door]]>Tue, 24 Feb 2015 00:22:58 GMThttp://thimbleandcloth.com/4/post/2015/02/diy-desk-from-a-hollow-core-door.htmlLets be real, Do you follow Studio Mcgee on Instagram? HERE you go.

Obviously my desk (and entire office space) was inspired by this one photograph that sang out to me. Shea Mcgee is a design genius. Everything she touches is GOLD!


When I stumbled upon this photo I thought, "Hey, I have that paint color, and a similar chair, and a similar rug, etc, etc, BINGO, Blogging office!!" 

there were two main things I didn't have. that Blu Dot Desk and $1200 for said desk. 

And so like anything I've ever seen and wanted, I thought, "I can make that!" and YOU can too!

This desk is a fairly simple build if you have general knowledge of power tools/woodworking/tape measuring skills.

Heres a little peek of how it all turned out before we get started.

What You'll Need: This material list is based off of my hollow core door that measured 29.5" x 80", make appropriate changes if your door is a different size.

Hollow core door: mine was from Restore for $8
(5) 2x2x8's: $1.95 each
Benjamin Moore: Simply White in High Gloss
Clear Spray Laquer
wood filler/spackle
wood plugs for countersink holes

Tools:
chop saw/mitre saw 
tape measure
marker
electric drill
counter sink drill bit
2.5 inch screws
paint brush

After measuring your door. take the first 2x2 and mark and cut for the legs. each Leg is made up of 3 cuts. my door was 1.5 inch thick and a standard height desk is 30 inches. also, there was going to be a 2x2 Horizontal piece, the width of a 2x2 is 1.5 so I took 1.5 + 1.5 subtracted that from 30 inches and cut my two vertical legs at 27 inches, (when combined and screwed together with the tabletop and the horizontal leg = 30 inches high)


Start by making countersink screw holes into that bottom horizontal piece that will be connecting the two 27" vertical legs. And then screw in one of the 27" cuts into the horizontal piece, (my horizontal piece measures 29.5", which is the width of my door, yours might be different)

Then screw in the other leg into that same horizontal piece until you get this "U" shape.
Repeat for the other side, so you should have two, "U" shaped legs. 

At this point, I screwed my leg pieces into the table top, simply by screwing in from the top of the hollow core door, into both 2x2 leg pieces.
Then, I simply measured the distance between the two legs and cut a 2x2 to size. I measured and marked the center of those horizontal leg pieces and drilled countersink holes to screw in my middle wood beam from the outside of them. My table was 80" in length. I subtracted the 1.5" 2x2 width of both sides, making that cross beam 77" long.


To make the cross supports, I set my chop saw at 45 degrees. I measured the distance between the center of the table (from the underside) to the center of that horizontal leg piece. my cross beams are 47.5" long from the long end of the 45 degree cut to the short end of the 45 degree cut. 

This Diagram from Ana-White helped me measure and cut the right angles. IGNORE THE ACTUAL MEASUREMENTS ON THIS DIAGRAM, this plan is NOT for this project, it just helped me with the angle and the measurement as a visual.

After I cut out my two cross supports at 47.5 inches, I screwed one end into the horizontal leg piece, (to help hold up the other side of the cross support while screwing in one side, I duck taped it to the underside of the table) and then the other end into the underside of the table. Make sure to use shorter screws when you screw into the underside of table or else the screw will come all the way through the top of the tabletop.

Repeat for the second cross support and you should have something like this!

Obviously, there are hinge indentations on the front side of the desk, just rip down a piece of mdf, 1.5" thick and nail gun it to the front side to cover them up. You could also use wood filler.

I like to keep the door handle opening as my computer power cord hole!

To finish the desk, use spackle on the visible screw holes and wood plugs to fill the countersink holes. Sand it all down really good and wipe away all dust and dirt. 

Now you can paint! I used a foam roller and leftover Benjamin Moore Simply White in high gloss. Than I sprayed 3 coats of Valspar crystal clear gloss lacquer.  

 I still need to finish it off with the front strip of MDF. I am mighty happy with it, as I sit and blog from it this very minute!


I hope my instruction was clear and easy to understand. please let me know if you have any questions. Keep in mind our measurements might differ according to your door size.

Luvs, Lindy
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<![CDATA[DIY Gilded Brass Light Fixture.]]>Tue, 10 Feb 2015 18:41:25 GMThttp://thimbleandcloth.com/4/post/2015/02/diy-gilded-brass-light-fixture.htmlI Love me some BRASS! When it was time to choose fixtures for our kitchen, this 'galley inspired' light spoke to me. 
$528 price tag did not speak the same language.


It was off to Pinterest to see what I could come up with. As I searched 'DIY Brass light fixture' The Hunted Interiors Diy fixture was EXACTLY what I was looking for. I knew we were on the same wave length when I saw that we had the same inspiration fixture. 

Heres the 'How-To' and of course check out the original tutorial from The Hunted Interior.

You"ll need:

1. Hampton Bay flush mount in brushed nickel. $44

2. Antique Gold Rub N' Buff. $6

3. Rustoleum Metallic in BRASS (not gold, I had to order it online, but check your local Lowes.) $4

Take the fixture out of the box and outdoors to spray paint. (don't spray the white glass light cover that it comes with). When its dry, take a paper towel and cover the entire fixture with the rub n buff, work in tiny cirlces as you 'wipe on, wipe off', do as many coats as you'd like and blend to your desired look. 

You're done! And just like that, you're budget nickel flush mount looks almost identical to the brass beauty. 


Luvs, Lindy
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<![CDATA[DIY Copper and Wood Open Shelving]]>Wed, 28 Jan 2015 18:54:11 GMThttp://thimbleandcloth.com/4/post/2015/01/diy-copper-and-wood-open-shelving.htmlToday's post will be short and sweet, Because Mandy over at Vintage Revivals explains the How-To way better than I ever could. and of course all we did was follow her instruction. While you are there, be sure to browse her DIY gallery. She is a powerhouse woman who knows how to CREATE! 

DIY Copper and Wood Open Shelving Tutorial

Supply List:

11 feet of 1” copper pipe  Cut to (12) 11” pieces

(3) _____”x36” Wooden Dowels (they are the ones that have the dark orange on the end) cut to 12”

(6) 5/16”x 3 1/2” Dowel Screws

(6) 1/4”x 2 1/2” Dowel Screws

(6) 1/4” drywall anchors

(3) 2×2’s the length of your shelves

(6) pieces of 1/2” MDF cut to the width and length of your shelf.  Mine are 10” wide by 60” long.

(3) pieces of MDF cut to 2” x the length of your shelf.  Mine was 60”

(6) pieces of MDF cut to 2” x the depth of your shelf minus 1/2”.  My shelves are 10” deep so these cuts were 9 1/2”

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Nail Gun

Pipe Cutter

Drill


Head over to Vintage Revivals for the step by step.
Luvs, Lindy
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<![CDATA[DIY: Build and Stretch your own Canvas]]>Wed, 21 Jan 2015 03:45:59 GMThttp://thimbleandcloth.com/4/post/2015/01/diy-build-and-stretch-your-own-canvas.html
Building you're own stretched canvas is so simple, and SOOOOOO much cheaper than buying a ready made one from the store, especially one this large. the finished dimensions are 48" by 48". 


What you need:
Mitre saw (chop saw)
Staple gun and staples
60" of 60" wide canvas (I get mine from Joanns. it is in their duck cloth section and costs $9.99 a yard, use a 50% coupon) 
(3) 2x2x8's
Electric drill
Screws


start by cutting 2 of your 2x2's in half, so 48". So you will have 4 48" pieces.
Now you will cut mitered edges so that the wood pieces fit together at a perfect 45 degree angle.

position your chop saw to 45 degrees and cut the edge of each piece of wood, ONLY CUT ONE SIDE OF EACH PIECE OF WOOD
Now position your chop saw to 45 degrees on the other side of the saw and cut the other end of each piece of wood to look like this:
Now take the 3rd 2x2 and mark and cut a piece 45". This will be your support beam.

You are done with your cuts, fit together your pieces to make sure they fit flush.
Time to screw it all together, Take your electric drill and screw the pieces together. you will want use two screws per joint. Position the screws so they don't meet each other and deviate, so screw one on top and one on bottom as shown in the photo:
Go around screwing together all the joints. You'll want to screw the support beam at an angle so that the screw reaches the adjoining 2x2.
You are ready to stretch your canvas! Lay out your canvas and staple one side (I suggest to wrap and staple right underneath the support beam first)

go to the opposite side and pull and stretch until your canvas is pulled tight with no wrinkles and staple. 
Do this same method with the 2 opposite sides. until you have a staple on each side of the canvas, pulling it tightly.
Now work your way around the entire canvas pulling and stretching as hard as you can until there are no more wrinkles. wrap the corners like a present.
You are done and ready to paint!!

XOXO, Lindy
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<![CDATA[DIY: Large Wood Coffee Table]]>Sat, 17 Jan 2015 05:14:30 GMThttp://thimbleandcloth.com/4/post/2015/01/diy-large-wood-coffee-table.htmlI Love a good, perfectly square, large coffee table and have been inspired by the look of them for a long time. So I gathered some 2x2's and whatever scrap wood I had in the trusty ol' wood pile for the top and got to work. its actually really easy, and will come together quickly with the right tools.


                                                                                                   {Pre-Stain}

SUPPLIES:
[6] 2x2's x 8ft
Wood top: (the finished dimensions are 39"x39" so gather whatever wood widths you'd like to make it 39") I used whatever wood I had on hand.
Countersink drill bit
2.5 inch screws
Electric Drill 
Chop Saw
Tape measurer and Pencil
Stain or Paint
Wood glue: I didn't use it in my construction but I would recommend it, applying it on all the joints.

CUT LIST: (using a chop saw)
[8] cuts of 39" (2x2's)
[4] cuts of 15' (2x2's)
Cut all your table top boards to 39" long





My pile of finished cuts. 4 @ 15" and 8 @ 39" 
Start by constructing 2 sets of the above image by using your countersink drill bit and drilling though the 2x2 far enough so the 2.5 inch screw will go through it and secure tightly with the connecting 2x2 without splitting the wood. you will be connecting one of the 39" cuts with two of the 15" cuts.
next, you'll want to connect the two pieces you've made by screwing them into a 39" cut. repeat for both sides to make a square.
Continue by screwing a couple more 39" cuts along the tops to make another square.
You have your base!

Glue and clamp your table top together and leave it overnight. 
(I don't have photos of this next part, Ill try and explain best I can!) take 2 thin scrap pieces of wood, like a 1x4 or 1x2, about 34' long and run them vertically, perpendicular to the wood top, across the slats and put a couple screws  into each piece of wood (basically just securing them together, extra reinforcement)

Pick up your wood top and place it on top of your base, whatever you used to secure the wood top should butt up against the undersides of your base and keep it in place, does that make sense?

Sand it all down, especially the joints where you made your cuts and use some wood plugs to seal up the countersink holes. Now all you have to do select a finish and stain!

I will be back soon to blog about my easy "Restoration Hardware" greywash technique which I used to finish mine. 
XOXO, Lindy
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<![CDATA[DIY: Large Scale Beach Print]]>Wed, 14 Jan 2015 03:17:19 GMThttp://thimbleandcloth.com/4/post/2015/01/diy-large-scale-beach-print.html
It's no secret that I love a good seascape. I am a sucker for coastal anything and am so naturally drawn to all these large framed prints of beach-goers and the coastline that are popping up a lot in the design world. feast your eyes on my inspiration.
                                                                                                        _{via}
                                                                                                     {via}
                                                                                                       {via}
I thought 'well heck, I can do that', and then thought of a lovely little time when my hubs and I were in the south of Spain traipsing about on the beach and having a jolly old time. So I dug through my old photos and found the said photograph. 
and heck, heres a couple more from Spain because you HAVE TO see how beautiful it is.
Ok so anyways, the trick for any blown up piece of art is a good camera, specifically a DSLR. So grab your camera, head to the nearest beach and take your best "Pinterest worthy" beach-goer photograph.

to print, I chose to go with Shutterfly for my 20x30, they are reasonably priced ($22) and I've always been happy with the quality of the prints.

The frame and mat are from Ikea, which has been empty and laying around my house for a long time so the total cost was only $22 for my very own version of a favorite design trend. Plus it was such a great memory and Im so very happy it is now framed and frozen in time forever and ever.

Luvs, Lindy
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